Tuesday, September 23, 2025

The differences and similarities between Utah and Nevada

We enjoyed our time in Utah, but we had another moving day. As we journeyed out of Utah and into Nevada, we wanted to tally a few of the differences we found between these two neighboring states. 

After three days at a no-hook-up camp site in Utah, our solar and battery were still going strong. In fact, it was so strong that we used our electric induction plate (rather than gas stove) to cook breakfast. That brought our battery to its lowest reading thus far--84%.  There's also a reading that estimates approximately how long you will have battery power if the current situation continues. The monitor indicated that we would have power for "infinity." Nice! 

During our drives around Salt Lake City, we found out that I-80 east of the city was rather steep. So we opted for the less steep (but a little out of the way) drive down Highway 189--also known as the Provo Canyon Highway.

Utah had the beautiful Wasatch mountain range of the Rocky Mountains, so that was one difference between Utah and mountain-less Nevada. It was fun to get one more peek of the highest mountains of Utah as we made our exit drive. We also drove by Bridal Veil Falls, which was so crowded on a Sunday afternoon. We can report that it was empty on a Monday at 10:30.

While traffic was light on Monday through the canyon, it was heavy when we turned north onto I-15 and drove from Provo to Salt Lake City. We wish we could stick around four more days in Utah to celebrate "The Days of '47." We've heard that this city has a great celebration to commemorate the day in 1847 when Joseph Smith determined "this is the place!" They even made a public park where he said those words in 1847. The park was named, "This is the Place Park."

We turned west at the southern end of The Great Salt Lake, and got a glimpse of the largest saltwater lake in the Western Hemisphere.

We also got glimpses of the long trucks that were allowed on the highways of Utah. Double trailers were the norm on roads here. But instead of a difference, we found they were also allowed and very evident in Nevada as well.

The thermometer told us that it was 94 degrees, so why was the ground covered with white snow? That wasn't snow. The Great Salt Lake is shrinking, and it was surrounded by miles of salt brine that just looks like snow.

As we drove down the highway, we had briny water on both sides of the road. The telephone poles and fence posts were coated with salt. It was time to keep the air-conditioner on and the windows rolled up because that salty water was stinky!

We also found a pot ash quarry, where super-sized diggers were transferring the white pot ash into conveyer piles to be trucked out of Utah.

In the middle of the salt flats in this barren western edge of Utah, we could see something tall and strangely out of place on the horizon.

This is "The Tree of Utah" found on the north side of I-80. This 87-foot-tall sculpture was created by a Swedish artist in the 1980's and gives passengers traveling this lonely section of the interstate something to speculate on like, "what is it?" and "why is it here?" The tree had six spheres that were coated by rocks and minerals from Utah, but we don't know the meaning of this lonesome tree.

The last Utah stop was the Bonneville Salt Flats. It was fun to get out of the pickup and actually walk on this white crust. The salt flats were formed from the ancient Lake Bonneville, and we liked the interlocking shapes that formed as the last of the water evaporated. 

Its claim to fame is that most land speed records have been set here at the famous "measured mile." Approximately seven miles away (but well in front of those hills behind Denisa) a race course is laid out. It is approximately 80 feet wide and ten miles long, with a black reference line down the middle. It was there that land speed records of 400, 500, and 600 miles per hour were broken.

The white crusty ground looks like pure salt, but we weren't brave enough to taste it.

We could have walked to the mountains to the north, but they were further than they look. The Bonneville Salt Flats were 30,000 acres of flat-white-nothing-ness. 

Just past the salt flats, we were welcomed to Nevada--the fifth state of this summer adventure. We were also welcomed to mountain time zone. That was another difference between Utah and Nevada--an hour. We also saw a continuing string of casinos as we crossed into Nevada. It seemed to us that another difference was the conservative morals of Utah vs. the casino lifestyle of Nevada.

Close to that border, we changed from salty white landscapes to desert dirt. This is the Great Basin, where rain seldom falls. The rain is stopped from the west by California's Sierra mountains, and from the east by the Rockies. It was so barren that the usual sage brush doesn't even thrive in Nevada. While we didn't see any wildlife that would want to call this home, we thought it was interesting that Nevada had installed wildlife bridges across the interstate to give them safe crossings.
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But one thing that was the same in both states was the nice people. We travel without water in our tanks in order to keep the trailer light. So we needed to add water when we arrived. We found that the Chamber of Commerce in Elko, Nevada, allows campers to fill water for free right by the painted cowboy boot near the chamber office.


Our first camp site in Nevada was also our first Boondockers Welcome site of this trip. We've been members of the Harvest Host/Boondockers Welcome organization for several years. When traveling in the northeast we used it extensively, and now we're planning to use it in the west. People (usually RVers) allow RVers to spend the night on their property for free. We have the phone app that tells us approximately where these sites are located, and a way to contact them for permission to stay. Our site for the next three nights is on an acreage beside Sandy's home. It offered shade, and she had set up an outdoor table and chairs for us to use. We enjoyed getting to know Sandy during our stay! You should also notice that we have views of the Ruby Mountains.

We had never heard of the Ruby Mountains before, but we were anxious to get to know them. While we enjoyed the mountains of Utah, we thought another difference was that Nevada had no mountains. But we were glad to find out that we were wrong!

Sunday, September 21, 2025

Can you spell Timpanogos Mountain and Timpanogos Cave?

We were up at 6:45 this morning, and ate a big breakfast to fuel us for a day of hiking. Our chosen trailhead was only 36 miles away, but it took well over an hour to drive those miles on the winding mountain roads. We love it when we drive high enough to start seeing mountain peaks peeking over the road. We were getting some views of the Wasatch Mountains, and especially the tallest--Mount Timpanogos. Can you spell that mountain? Because it keeps showing up in our time around Salt Lake City.


It was interesting that we didn't meet a single early-morning car on this first highway. But we did pass a number of bicyclers heading up that steep grade. This tandem bike had twice as many legs to pedal up the road.

Then we turned onto a narrow paved road with no lines or shoulders. That's when the traffic picked up, as this was a popular road to get to popular trails in the Wasatch Mountains. We were here on a Sunday when all the weekend hikers were out in force.

We were planning to hike to Scout Falls, but this was the same trail head used to hike to the summit of Mount Timpanogos--the highest mountain in the Wasatch range of the Rocky Mountains. Because parking was not allowed along this narrow paved road, this trail head was in high demand on the weekend. So the forest service started a policy where reservations were required to get one of the coveted parking places on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. We were lucky to get a reservation at rec.gov for a Sunday morning parking spot. The reservation costs $12, but we got $10 off with our senior life-time pass. We were surprised to see a ranger on duty at the entrance of this remote parking lot, asking for our reservation receipt and turning people away without one.


Our parking reservation was good for twelve hours--from midnight last night until noon today. This reservation system cuts back on the crowds on the trail. Most of the people we met on the trail were actually coming down from their hike to the summit of Timpanogos. One friendly group explained that they had parked in the lot at midnight, hiked up the eight miles to the top in the dark, so they could see sunrise from the summit. Now at 9:00 a.m., they were almost back to the bottom where the aspens grow.

Timpanogos is well-loved by the locals, who call it "The Timp" for short. Even though we were only an eight-mile hike away from the summit, we couldn't see this tallest mountain from this part of the trail. But the smaller, closer mountains were lovely.

The surrounding scenery was beautiful in these Wasatch Mountains, and we had to stop frequently to admire it as we hiked higher.

Our destination was Scout Falls, a lesser-traveled spur off the main trail. We had to scrambled over, and crawl up a series of tree roots to get to the falls.

Mark walked the narrow ledge and actually went through the waterfall to take this picture of Denisa (who was smart enough to stay dry on the other side of the falls).

You can see droplets of water in the air, as Mark took pictures from behind the waterfall. You can also see how narrow the trail gets between Mark and Denisa, before it slips into the steep canyon below.

We had a beautiful view of a ring of mountain tops surrounding us at Scout Falls.

A fellow hiker had recommended that we continue a little higher above the falls for even better views.

We got our first view of The Timp and the mountains around it. Our short hike this morning stretched to 4.6 miles long with over 1,000 feet in elevation gain. Then we had to hurry down that mountain trail, because we had another Timpanogos reservation to keep this day.

We had reservations to tour Timpanogos Cave, and we were supposed to check in at the National Monument visitor center at 12:00. Our tour of the three caves--Timpanogas, Middle, and Hansen Caves doesn't actually start until 1:30.

You have an hour and half between the check-in time and the tour time because you have to hike to the top of the mountain to get to the entrance of the first cave. What?!? We didn't realize it was that tall mountain?!?

We had laughed when we read that they allow 1.5 hours for people to make the 1.5 mile walk to get to the top. We are experienced hikers, and we should be able to bang out a paved hike to a national monument in just thirty minutes or so, right? Wrong! That paved hike was steep with 1,600 feet in elevation gain, and it was hot! We were glad for some occasional shade when we passed through rock tunnels on the way.

We stopped to chat at the bottom, and didn't start right at 12:00. Then we had to hustle to make it to the top by 1:30. Whew! We shouldn't have underestimated that hike up! We arrived at the cave entrance with three minutes to spare, and we were sweating from all the exertion. The work to get to the entrance of the cave really limits the number of people that can tour here, and we were the oldest people we saw at the top.

We were glad when our tour ranger unlocked the wooden doors, and led us into the first cave. Ahhh! It was a cool 43 degrees inside. 

Our ranger started pointing out different cave structures. We saw the usual stalactites (that are attached TIGHT to the ceiling) and stalagmites (that you MIGHT trip on since they are attached to the floor). When the two meet in the middle you have a column. He also pointed out some ribbon-like stalactites that they call cave bacon (in the upper right hand corner of the picture below).

We took a close-up of the finely curved small structures on the ceiling, that he called cave macaroni. This 1:30 tour was making us hungry for lunch with all this talk of bacon and pasta!


We've toured bigger caves with grand ballrooms and special lighting. But this one seemed more natural. Some of the prettiest parts of the cave were only visible when the ranger shined his flashlight on them.

The three caves were discovered at different times in different ways. Early explorers to the caves broke rock formations and removed them to sell. Then the caves came under protection as a national monument. Surprisingly, the forest service blasted the walls that divided the three caves to make them into one continuous cave. But they found that this changed the moisture level and characteristics of the caves. So now artificial air lock doors have been installed between the caves. We had to carefully open the door, move into the open space, and then close the door behind us before opening the next door into the middle cave.

It had a lacy collection of soda straws and stalactites.

As we walked up that hot trail to the top of the mountain, it seemed silly to be carrying a jacket. But after an hour inside the 43-degree caves, we were glad to have those jackets.

As soon as we opened the door to go back outside, the heat hit us. Yeah, we took that jacket off in a hurry.

We enjoyed the views more going down because we didn't have to hurry and it was so easy. We actually ran part of the way down because it was easier than trying to put on our brakes all the way.

The afternoon temperatures warmed up, and we lingered in the tunnels on the trail for the shade. We got another four miles of exercise, and another 1,600 feet in elevation for our day's total.

After almost nine miles and 2,600 feet in elevation gain, we were tired. But we made a loop drive to see more new areas. We wanted to drive down Provo Canyon Road, and the recommended stop was at Bridal Veil Falls. We've seen waterfalls with this name all over the country, and this bridal veil was just as beautiful as the others.

But it was also very popular on a warm Sunday afternoon. When we panned out to show the crowds at the bottom, it wasn't quite as picturesque.

Normally, we would have hiked to the top of the falls, but our feet refused. So we braved the crowds at the bottom to soak our feet in the cold water coming off the waterfall.

Our feet also refused to hike when we made the stop at Sundance Mountain Resort. Robert Redford purchased this land in 1969, after filming scenes from the movie "Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid." He developed a resort and named it Sundance after that movie. It was impossible to take a good picture of the resort (especially since our feet refused to walk to the trail.)

So Denisa took a picture of the unusual wildflower near the pickup, and we took our tired feet home to our campground. It had been a beautifully interesting and tiring day spending time with the two Timpanogos--the mountain and the cave.