Boundary Waters - The Numbered Lakes

The main reason we wanted to stay around Ely, Minnesota, is its proximity to the Boundary Waters. If you look at a Minnesota state road map, you'll see this section in the northeast that has no roads. That's because it is pristine wilderness, reserved only for boaters.

In fact, the Boundary Waters are reserved only for boats without motors. This is the "Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness," and we couldn't wait to experience it for ourselves.

Based on the advice from our very helpful campground host, our first trip was to "The Numbered Lakes." After driving 20 miles east of Ely, we came to a crowded parking lot and inflated our kayak.

We also filled out the necessary single-day permit with our put-in point--#30. The parking lot is full because many of these vehicles brought people that are spending multiple days camping within the wilderness. That experience takes a lot of planning, including a pre-approved permit and a per-day camping fee. But for day-trippers like us, the experience is free and easy, with a permit we can fill out at the entry point.

It was cloudy as we put the kayak into the water and began our journey into the wilderness. We have no cell phone service and there are no information signs in the wilderness. We're on our own out here.

This is the map of our area according to GPS. We are parked at the green flag at the top of the map, and can get onto the water right from the parking lot. Then we will make our way through the maze of waterways until we get to Lake One . . . then Lake Two . . . then Lake Three. You get the idea.

As we made our way through the first narrow channels, we met about a dozen canoes coming out of the wilderness. They all have big packs on board, filled with tents and sleeping bags, and gear to prepare food for several days. There are no bathrooms or showers in the wilderness, so they also look a little scruffy. With rain in the forecast today, it looks like they are hurrying to get home before all their gear gets wet.

Once into Lake One, the views open up and there are many options on where to paddle. With lots of channels and peninsulas it would be easy to get lost out here in the wilderness. So we're very glad to have our phone GPS that not only shows us our location, but also the water-ways around us.

That GPS helps us find the correct spot on Lake One for the portage to Lake Two. The white water in the picture below shows the rapids and rocks that connect the two lakes. But the only way for us to get there is to carry the boat.

Remembering that Denisa is still recovering from a badly sprained ankle, this portage path does not look good. A week ago she wouldn't be able to walk this path on her own, much less carry a boat across it. But after three weeks, her ankle is finally better, and we're going to try to do this.

Taking tiny steps while carrying the front of the boat, she is doing it. Mark's job is harder. He's carrying the back of the boat, so he can't see all those rocks and roots until he stumbles on them. It's a slow process with many stubbed toes, but we finally see water ahead.

That brought us to a tiny heart-shaped lake for a short paddle, then yet another longer portage. That's pretty simple for us, but for canoes loaded with overnight gear it's more complicated. They must unload and carry all their gear across the portage, then walk back to get their boat, then reload everything for the short paddle across the little lake. Then repeat the whole process again for the second portage.

We have made it to Lake Two, and a whole new series of waterways to explore. It's time for a celebratory picture!

 As we look back at the opening between the lakes, we talked to another boater who has a four-day permit to stay inside the wilderness. He has a map with approved camping spots, and he's hoping that he can find one that is vacant. We're the only inflatable kayak he's seen, as most people rent the ultra-lightweight canoes from outfitters in the area.

As we paddle around Lake Two, we see the results of the fire that wiped out whole sections of trees here in the Boundary Waters.

But most of the lakes are ringed by healthy tall pines, protected from logging and the harmful effects of man because they are sheltered in this wilderness.

We're not surprised to see another eagle this morning, perched on the tip of one of the tall pines like a Christmas tree topper. 

We've found a narrow channel that looks like it needs exploring, and we head down it. The clouds are beginning to break up, and for the first time we think maybe we won't get rained on today.

These little channels often hold more wildlife, and this one was great! We found this family of goldeneye ducks out for a swim.

The babies are almost as big as the mother. But she has the sharp golden eye of a mature bird that they don't have yet.

We had just mentioned that we haven't seen any turtles in Minnesota. For all the time we have spent on different lakes, this was our first turtle sighting.

Later, we found another turtle, and this one even had a tiny frog friend in the photo as well.

When we see ripples ahead, we decide to pull off to explore our options. In the national park there had been danger signs when rapids were ahead. But signs aren't allowed in the wilderness. From the looks of the white water ahead, we have come as far as we can on this channel. We might be able to get through them, but they look impossible to paddle back up.

This makes a great place for a lunch spot. Again, we are picnicking with a great view!

We made it to Lake 3, and had plenty of energy to make it to Lake 4. The only problem is that we would still have to paddle all the way back to the car. That's the nice part about those multi-day permits that allow boaters to explore the area over several days.

As we made our way back to the car, we got some great views of the sun on the water with the puffy clouds behind it. This is a beautiful place to spend the day!

We've already had our picnic lunch, but it's always nice to find snacks along the way. That might look like a normal rock wall to most people . . .

But to Denisa it is a vertical raspberry patch that had boat-in picking options.

As many as we have found here in Northern Minnesota, we are always thrilled to find another eagle silhouetted against the cloudy sky.

They often perch on dead branches, where it is easy to land and take-off, and they have an unobstructed view of the water around them.

We weren't looking forward to our two portages to get back to Lake One. This time Mark did a little bushwhacking to see the rapids we were missing out on because we had to carry the boat.

After accomplishing both portages, we had to agree that we were glad we did it. We got to experience so much more of the Boundary Waters, and got more of a sense of the vast wilderness of this area. 
We took our time getting back through the maze of Lake One--still very glad to have that GPS to help us find our way home. These rock islands and trees are beginning to all look alike!

We stopped on this island when Denisa spied blueberry bushes. These berries are bigger than some we have found, and nice and sweet.

She's working hard, picking berries to eat, while Mark is relaxing.

It's a beautiful place to relax!

After eight hours on the water, we are tired when we finally paddle around the last bend to our take-out point. Denisa can't help but smile with a sense of satisfaction and accomplishment. We made it across four portages and miles of paddling in the Boundary Waters of the Canoe Area Wilderness! After reading about them, we have experienced it for ourselves and we like it!

On our way home, we stop in the tiny town of Winton. Someone we met yesterday told us about the weekly concerts here. They rope off the parking lot, and the locals put on their jackets and come out for an evening of free entertainment. It was a perfect ending to our day on the water! Have we made it clear that we are enjoying our time in Minnesota this summer?