Thursday, September 3, 2026

Plan B for Wisconsin


What do you do when you plan to go hiking at Wisconsin's most beautiful and most popular state park--but the heat and the smoke change your plans?  We went into Plan-B mode and found some really fun other things to do this day. We started with a trip to the International Crane Discovery Center near Baraboo, Wisconsin.


Smoke from the wild fires in Canada and Minnesota had blown into Wisconsin. Our air quality was rated as "unhealthy" this morning.

We have a special place in our heart for the endangered North American whooping cranes, so that was one of the reason that we wanted to tour the Crane Discovery Center. We have found these huge white birds in the wild several times when we were wintering in South Texas. At one time there was only 21 whooping cranes left in the world. It was the work of this center that brought them back from assured extinction. 

We enjoyed a front row seat to the whooper's extensive enclosure. We also enjoyed the education from the knowledgeable tour guide on the 10:00 tour.

Because the mortality rate of young whooping cranes in the wild is quite high, this group incubates the fertilized eggs and hand-raises most of the young in their "cranium." In order to not imprint the babies with a human parent, the caregivers wear all white outfits and use crane puppets over their arms to feed the young chicks.

But once you hand raise a bunch of chicks, how do you teach them how to migrate south to survive the cold Wisconsin winters? This was the group that led their first flock of young birds to their winter migration spot in Florida by rigging a white ultra-light airplane that looked like a whooping crane parent. The pilot of the open-air plane was wearing a crane suit, and the young flock of birds followed his lead south. We had seen the documentary about that trip, and our guide recounted the story for our group. It was good to support a group like this!

There are 15 different types of cranes in the world, and this is the only place where all 15 can be seen. Just like North America's whooping cranes, these large birds in Africa, Asia, Europe, and Australia are also on the endangered list because of their shrinking habitat. The Crane Foundation helps those other continents with their efforts to breed and raise chicks. Our guide took us on a tour of the enclosures and then let us amble our way around and take pictures. Of course, Denisa took pictures of all of them. We've put the best of her crane pictures at the end of the blog for anyone interested.


The visitor center had a very good 12-minute film, and we would highly recommend a visit to the International Crane Discovery Center! Our tour guide took us on a shortened tour because of the heat and the smoke, but we ended up staying for over two hours!

Besides all the birds, Denisa enjoyed the wild flowers that were scattered throughout the park.

All of the bird enclosures included signage that indicated the common name, as well as the scientific name of the crane. There was also information about the home territory of each bird.


Then we could take our own picture of the specimen in the enclosure.


The Goofball Crane has the scientific name of "Mucho Coocooius."


This specimen's home territory is wandering God's wonders.


After a fun time with the cranes, we were hungry, hot, and tired of the smoke. We have been in the Indian casinos in Oklahoma, where we have literally ran through the smoky gaming tables hoping for a small non-smoking section of slot machines tucked away somewhere. We were glad to see that Wisconsin casinos are smoke free. This was the first time we have gone inside a casino to escape the smoke outside! We stopped in at the Ho-Chunk Casino, and picked up the $5 free play for being a new member. We also got a $5-off voucher to be used in their restaurants. With a little luck we turned that free play money into cash enough to pay for our Chinese food lunch. It was a good air-conditioned stop on this hot and smoky afternoon, and a good change for Part B plans.

While in the town of Baraboo, we stopped at their free zoo. They have around 15 different animals. We're always surprised when a little town goes to the expense of hosting animals like bear, lynx, and an arctic fox. But our favorite was the resident beaver--mainly because he was the one willing to pose for us on this hot day.

After sitting down on his leathery beaver tail, he began a long process of grooming for the guests.


In addition to the animals, the zoo was lined with rows of flowers that were looking great in July. We came to really like the little town of Baraboo, Wisconsin. We hadn't planned to visit here, but it was another good Plan B stop.

After the zoo stop, we were outside for a walking tour of Dr. Evermor's Sculpture Park. 

The vision of Tom Every, this gallery was a collection of sculptures made from scrap metal and other salvaged pieces.


A few of the pieces allow for visitor interaction. This one looks like something straight out of a Dr. Seuss book.

Others were sculptures of the native wildlife--like this bigger-than-life-sized mosquito. (Note: while we purchased an artillery of bug spray and mosquito netting, we didn't have any problems with the bugs.)

The largest sculpture in the middle of the park is called the Forevertron, and it wouldn't fit into one photo frame. Perhaps it got its name because you could stare at it forever and not see it all? It's massive, yet intricate.

We especially liked the gooney bird sculptures made out of junked band instruments. Mark used to play the baritone in high school . . .

while Denisa played the saxophone.

A whole band of metal sculptures were conducted by an impressively large conductor.

Mark visited at length with a resident artist working on a clay sculpture of a local military hero.

The Dr. Evermore Sculpture Garden stop was free and just a few miles away. It was another part of our Plan B, and we would recommend it to everyone!

Our final stop of the day was the real reason we wanted to spend time in this part of Wisconsin. Devils Lake State Park is the most-visited park in the state, and we wanted to see why. We postponed the hike we had planned for today, but we did a drive-by to see what else there was to do in this popular park that was covered in smoke.

The smoke really cloaked the distant views that Devils Lake is known for.  Denisa waded into the beautifully clear blue water with a few other hardy Wisconsin travelers. We're guessing that the water and views are breath-taking on a less smoky day.

We were watching the weather and the smoke forecasts carefully, hoping that we would still get to do our planned outdoor activities before we left the area. In the meantime, we had laundry piling up. So we found a local laundromat and did some household chores out of the smoke. We had a good time and got some things done with our Plan B here in Wisconsin.

Now for those crane pictures that Denisa had so much fun taking this morning:

The Siberian Cranes get the award for having the longest migration trip--they fly 3,000 miles twice each year.


The White-Naped Crane also resides in Russia. Most of the enclosures at the Crane Foundation included a painted back drop that was reminiscent of their native homeland.

The Black-Necked Crane--not surprisingly--has a black neck. This one is from China.

Japan's Red-Crowned Cranes are the heaviest birds here--weighing up to 25 pounds.


This one had found a snail, and he kept banging it on the rocks to try to crack it open.

The different cranes have different diets. The Red-Crowned Cranes like aquatic tidbits like this little frog that was trying to keep his distance.

The Eurasian Crane is one of the least endangered of the cranes. With 800,000 in existence, these birds have to fight for territory. The artist included a couple Eurasian cranes in the painted landscape of this enclosure. But it had to be covered with a black tarp when the two resident cranes kept fighting with the painted birds.

The Wattled Crane is the largest crane in Africa.



The Grey-Crowned Cranes are their neighbors, also from Africa.


The Demoiselle Cranes are the smallest of the cranes, and form huge flocks when they migrate over the Himalayan Mountains in Nepal. Their head feathers look like a little old man with a bald head on the top and long hair on the side.

The Black-Crowned Cranes are sacred birds in their homeland of Senegal.

The Blue Crane is found in South Africa, and between 25,000 to 30,000 exist.

Standing in the blue water of the enclosure made a pretty mirrored picture of the Blue Crane.

We didn't take any pictures of the common sand hill cranes that we have seen often in Wisconsin this summer. Maybe we'll get a picture of them in the wild?

Sunday, August 30, 2026

The smoke and heat in The Wisconsin Dells

We made the 35-mile trip from Madison through central Wisconsin to our next campground. That's 35 miles through dairy land and right past the Headquarters of the Culver's burger and ice cream franchise. We were in the middle of cheese country! We had been snacking on cheese curds and string cheese from local shops since we hit the Wisconsin border!

We stayed at Double K-D campground, a family-owned place that doesn't have many rules and no one to greet you and lead you to your site when you arrive. When we finally got settled into a camp site, we couldn't wait to turn the air-conditioner on. Wisconsin was welcoming us with an unusually hot stretch of days, and this was another weather-aware-heat-wave day. 

Between the humidity and the heat, we spent more time than usual inside with the AC on. We ventured out after we fixed dinner, and explored Mirror Lake State Park. While the pictures on the web site showed a clear lake that mirrors the trees around it, we instead found a green algae bloom that didn't tempt us to get out our kayak.

Wisconsin State Parks charge vehicles with out-of-state license plates $16 for a one-day parking pass. Since we plan to visit several state parks, we invested in the $50 out-of-state annual parking pass as we drove into our first park. Because we couldn't kayak and because the heat was oppressive, the ranger suggested a short, flat hike in the shade to Echo Rock. So we parked and headed into the forest.

It was a one-mile hike to the big rock overlooking the water's edge. Of course, we had to climb to the top of Echo Rock.

We could see commotion through the trees, and realized that we were very close to the Ishnala Supper Club--in business here since 1953.

We had just eaten dinner, and we didn't have reservations, but we were curious what a Wisconsin Supper Club looked like.


The supper club was named for the Ishnala tribe from this area. Several teepees and other Native American art pieces decorated the outdoor area.

The big parking lot was full, and guests were dressed nicely. The billboard at the parking lot pictured some pretty fancy entree options. Supper clubs serve things like North Atlantic Salmon, 24-ounce Ribeye, Prime Rib, Butterflied Prawns, Lobster Tails, or a Filet Mignon. We couldn't help but notice that no prices were included on that billboard. When we looked it up, we found those entrees ranged in price from $55 to $80. We were glad that we weren't hungry!

Another sign reminded customers that they would have a good time, because Ishnala was the state's best Supper Club, and was voted Wisconsin's "best destination restaurant" every year from 2016 to the present. Because we were getting all our information from signs around the property, we should also point out that another one said they have served 42,004 "old fashioneds" this season. Wow! That's a lot of alcohol! We peeked inside, to see what the interior of a Wisconsin Supper Club looked like.


It was too warm for anyone to enjoy the patio seating, but the lake here didn't have the green algae that we saw earlier.

After checking out the supper club, we took a different trail back to the car. It was longer and less flat, and we were both sweating profusely by the time we got finished with our 2.7-mile hike this day.

We assumed that it would cool off this evening, but we had also heard that the smoke from the Canada and Minnesota wild fires was on its way to Wisconsin. They predicted it would reach us at 8:00 this evening, and their estimate was spot on. As we drove into the town of The Wisconsin Dells, we were engulfed by the edge of the smoke.  The sun was low in the sky when we got there, and the smoke had turned it into a neon orange orb.

We were also engulfed by the tourist mecca of The Wisconsin Dells. There were miniature golf courses on steroids, Ripley's Believe-it-or-not museum, escape rooms, and fudge shops by the dozens. Their main claim to fame, however, is that they have the most water parks in the world. It's a summer vacation hot spot for families! We hadn't planned to spend much time in The Wisconsin Dells, but we wanted to see it for ourselves.

We drove into town this evening to see the live entertainment on Elm Plaza. This touristy town hosts live music every evening from 7-9, and we were treated to a performance by "The Swing Crew."

Denisa was perfectly content to relax in her adirondack chair and listem to the music. But Mark "volunteered" her to play the maracas during the next number. It turned out to be the longest song ever performed on the Elm Plaza--at least that's what Denisa thought.

We stayed until their last favorite song, and then made the 15-mile trip back to our campground. We weren't excited about the heat or the smoke, but we were still having a good time near The Wisconsin Dells!